Tiny bubbles

There are 190 days, 19 hours, 37 minutes (less by the time you read this) until we raise our glasses to the next 1,000 years. It is time to consider what to put in those glasses, because those crafty French are warning us that there may not be enough t괥 de cuv饠(top of the line) to go around. Here's where I would go if you consider this a once-in-a-lifetime experience: Dom P鲩gnon, the world's best known grande marque, is available in the '92 vintage (about $120). If you find any '90 vintage on shelves, cash in your stock options and buy it. Finding Louis Roederer Cristal may prove slightly more difficult, but the '93 is currently out there (about $160). If you like your vintage champagne fermented in oak, from tiny walled-in vineyards, look for Krugs Clos du Mesnil Blanc de Blancs (100 percent chardonnay) from the '89 vintage (about $300). The ultimate beluga caviar companion may be Salon's Blanc de Blancs Le Mesnil '88 (about $143), and, oh yes, Krug will release an '88 just in time for Christmas! Taittinger Comtes de Champagne is also '93 vintage (about $178), and Veuve Clicquot has a '90 La Grande Dame available (about $135). The deal of the century, so to speak, may be Perrier-Jouet's Fleur de Champagne '90 (about $100). Most importantly, remember that fine champagne is as delicate as wine gets, so buy from a reputable merchant to assure that it has been handled properly.

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