Tuscany in Washington

You've grilled the vegetables, bought the salami and a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano, and Martin Scorsese is on his way over. What to drink? Why, Washington state sangiovese, of course. At last check there were approximately 50 acres of sangiovese grapes planted in our state, the best of which turn up in these bottles: '98 Andrew Will "Ciel du Cheval" (about $23)—Bright cherry and wonderful texture are the highlights of Chris Camarda's sangiovese from this Red Mountain vineyard. '97 Columbia "Red Willow Vineyard" (about $16)—South of Yakima, grower Mike Sauer and family have planted two clones of sangiovese: Grosso and Piccolo. Columbia's David Lake has blended the two, producing a supple wine with a silky texture. '96 Cavatappi "Red Willow Vineyard" (about $21.50)—Winemaker Peter Dow credits the quality of Red Willow fruit for his beautiful sangiovese, which is blended with 15 percent cabernet sauvignon. '97 Tefft Cellars (about $22)—From his estate vineyard in the Yakima Valley, Joel Tefft blended his sangiovese with 10 percent cabernet sauvignon and 15 percent nebbiolo to produce a wine with a complex, mineral taste. '97 Leonetti Cellars (priceless!)—This includes fruit from their estate vineyard in Walla Walla, blended with a little Syrah and a little petit verdot.

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