ON THE PLATE La Bodega The new tapas-and-wine haunt in Wallingford Center has entr饳 too—two versions of paella (chicken and chorizo: $20, seafood: market price), and specials like braised ahi tuna with roasted peppers ($9) or bay shrimp piperade in puff pastry ($12). Off the beaten tapas track, try the cold smoked duck breast ($9) or the gratin of mussels in garlic ($9). The Grand Marnier chocolate mousse with fresh orange zest ($6) is rumored to be a killer. 1815 N. 45th, 547-5791. Waterfront The Pier 70 restaurant with the fabulous view offers seafood in many styles: Recent treatments include grilled escolar with jalape�orn cakes ($26.95), a coconut and lemon grass-scented crab-and-shellfish stew ($27.95), and a risotto laced with sweet corn, spinach, and chanterelles topped off with grilled prawns ($24.95). Or graze your way through the "seafood indulgence" cold plate ($65): lobster, scallops, oysters, tuna, and more, much more. 2815 Alaskan Way, Pier 70, 956-9171. 727 Pine Downtown's new posh dining spot pushes the envelope with appetizers like 1,000-spiced saut饤 quail with hushpuppies and black-eyed pea relish ($12), a salad of watermelon, cucumber, and Texas feta ($7), and a spicy daily game special from the rotisserie (market price). You owe it to yourself to try the barbecue-spiced pork chop with Caribbean veggies ($24) or the blue cheese-garnished beef tenderloin ($30): the meats, from California's Niman Ranch, are so juicy and flavorful they could make a vegan's mouth water. 727 Pine, 774-6400. IN THE GLASS Chinook '97 Yakima Valley cabernet sauvignon This latest release from one of Washington's premium wineries should be in stores shortly at around $35. Don't miss out on Chinook's June-released cabernet franc, though; tasters at Pike & Western Wine Shop recently rated this $20 bottle as competitive with some of the world's best examples of the variety. ON THE MARKET At last: local corn! Ask your grower when it was cut—the less time from stalk to you, the sweeter the ear—and never mind steaming, much less boiling: Just pop the whole ear, husk and all, on the grill or in the microwave (four minutes on high). Sosio's in Pike Place has some killer peaches along with their justly famous vine-ripened tomatoes. Eastern Washington eggplant is rife. And don't forget your greens: beets, pumpkin vines, and Chinese broccoli are all in season. COMING UP 9/8 The 14th edition of Seattle Tilth's Organic Harvest Fair gives urbanites a chance to meet the people who grow the food they eat, plus workshops (learn to raise chickens in the city!), demonstrations (bake your own bread!), and contests galore. Good Shepherd Center, N.E. 50th and Sunnyside N. Get the full skinny at www.seattletilth.org. 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Sat. Something hot to report? Send updates to email@example.com.