The Hot Sheet

What's in, what's fresh, what's cooking.

ON THE PLATE Sterling Caf鼯B> The menu's straightforward, but the ingredients are special: Rosie and Don Wilson's kitchen is all organic, from crisper to spice rack. For lunch try the Oregon half-pound beefburger ($7.50) on a ciabatta bun, the citrus green salad with oranges, walnuts, and feta ($7), and top off with peach ice cream ($3.50). There's a tofu Reuben, too ($7.50), and tofu shepherd's pie at dinner ($11). 2614 N.E. 55th (north of University Village), 522-3011. Pagliacci During November, the most exotic item on Matt Galvin's lineup: the autumn pear primo pizza, sliced fresh local pears and Gorgonzola blue cheese on a fontina-mozzarella base with a sprinkling of mushroom, onion, and chopped walnut—a seasonal supremo. All Pagliacci outlets, in store or for delivery. 726-1717, Eastside 425-453-1717. IN THE GLASS '00 Chinook sauvignon blanc A full-bodied white that complements robust flavors like tomato, garlic, and basil, yet sips well on its own as a tangy, fruity ap鲩tif. About $16 in specialty wineshops. Alaska Brewing Smoked Porter The most-honored beer ever at the Great American Beer Festival returns for the 14th year. Savor its dark, alder smoke-scented richness; cook with it (barbecue sauce, seafood, cheesecake); and lay some away to age and mature, like port. Available through the holidays in 16 oz. 12-packs (about $3 a bottle) and on draft at Old Town Alehouse (Ballard), Hopvine Pub (Capitol Hill), and Latona Pub (Green Lake). AT THE MARKET Chanterelles and chestnuts, cranberries and kale, first-crop leeks and Mandarin oranges adorn produce stalls along with squash galore as winter kicks in. On Saturday from 9a.m.-2 p.m. the University District Farmers Market offers music by the Black Cat Orchestra and a cooking demo by the Bungalow's Jeff Treistman to celebrate its last day of the season. COMING UP Nov. 6-7 Quaff your way round Italy to the accompaniment of a four-course meal featuring funghi, tortellini, vitello, e parmigiano. Two evenings from 6:30 p.m. at the intimate Fontana Siciliana, 120 Blanchard, 441-1045. $45 per person exclusive of tax and tip. Nov. 7 Environmental activists Chefs Collaborative bring the sustainable-seafood message to Seattle with a banquet/seminar promoting consumer consciousness of the threat of overfishing to world seafood stocks. 6:30 p.m. at Christine Keff's Flying Fish, 2234 First, 728-8595. $75 exclusive of tax and tip. Reservations essential. Nov. 10 Fandango chef Christine Keff takes over the Seattle Central Community College's culinary training kitchen for the program's Ninth Annual Harvest Dinner and Auction benefit event. The five-course banquet features a chili-chicken soup; a salad of scallops, shiso, and mango; pipian rojo duck breast with hearts of palm; and a triple dessert course highlighting chocolate, blood oranges, and nuts. 6 p.m, SCCC, Broadway and Pine. Tickets $150, $250, and up. 587-5491. Nov. 16 Devotees of upscale French alcoholic grape juice rejoice: This year's crop hits town today at the Ninth Annual Beaujolais Nouveau Festival, to benefit Seattle's French-American Chamber of Commerce. Dozens of hot and cold hors d'oeuvres, music, and a chance at an all-expenser for two to London sweeten the deal. Four Seasons Olympic Hotel, 6-9 p.m., $90. 443-4703.

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