UNS-TABLE The idea was to celebrate the legacy of Northwest artists such as Mark Tobey and Morris Graves in everything from interior design to tableware, but the concept never quite worked, so this fall THE PAINTED TABLE will be painted no more. The dining space in the Alexis Hotel will get a new name, a new look, and a new menu—in charge of the latter will be former Palace Kitchen chef Matt Costello. No other details yet, but an insider says the new approach "will be more Americana and less fusion." At least it won't be another "Mediterranean" place. HIGH THAI BUPPHA BOONMA has a simple ambition: "to make everyday food look and taste like food for the royal table." The realm in question is Thailand, where Boonma worked her way up to the post of executive chef of the Imperial Queen's Park Hotel in Bangkok before spending nine years in France. Now in the United States, she's showcasing her culinary art at lower Queen Anne's RACHA, prior to a roll-out at other Racha restaurants around Puget Sound. Check out her pla tu (salsa-topped, olive-oil-seared ahi tuna, $12.95), chicken breast deep-fried in aromatic pandan leaves ($8.50), rack of lamb satay-style with a side of pickled vegetables ($10.95), and BANANAS POACHED IN COCONUT MILK ($2.95). And connoisseurs say her way with phad Thai ($11.95) will give you a whole new outlook on that hackneyed dish. 23 Mercer, 281-8833. HIGH TEA If you want to get in a suitably refined mood to appreciate the Seattle Art Museum's summer show "From Corot to Picasso," precede your visit with AFTERNOON TEA AT THE GEORGIAN (n饠the Georgian Room). Twenty-seven dollars ($17 for kids 4-12) gets you the traditional cuppa, finger sandwiches and pastries, and fruit. You'll feel like you're being painted by Mary Cassatt. Seatings from 2 to 3:30 p.m. Four Seasons Hotel, 411 University, reservations: 621-1700 ext. 3169. NIBBLES If we didn't know Christopher Kimball was incorruptible, we'd suspect payola: In a taste-off of 10 nationally distributed brands of tortilla chips in the July-August issue of Cook's Illustrated, Frito-Lay's DORITOS took the number one spot in both the salsa-dipping and nacho categories. COMING UP JULY 18 The all-American hamburger puts on a little ritz as Canlis grills up butter-tender KOBE-STYLE BEEF PATTIES to accompany a range of zinfandels from California selected by sommelier Shayn Bjornholm. $85 per person; special dinner begins at 6:30 p.m. 2576 Aurora N., reservations: 298-9550. Food and/or beverage news and/or gossip? E-mail Hot Dish at firstname.lastname@example.org.