Surrogate Suppers

You don't have to take Womyn's Studies 101 to realize Thanksgiving amounts to a big colonial luau. We came, we saw, we overstayed our welcome . . . and now we have big, empty states like Montana to show for it. For those who are sick and tired of cranberry anything, for those made ill by the word "giblets," and for those unimpressed with the Gospel of Columbus, here are a few mildly subversive alternativestwo where the chefs banish meat entirely, and one where the Indians (though admittedly not the Native American kind) finally get their say. Meatless mecca Café Florayour choice for "best vegetarian restaurant" in SW's 2003 Best of Seattle surveytrots out a typically fancy Thanksgiving dinner, with course after course of high-concept holiday chow. The edible harvest parade includes corn flan "with spaghetti squash, sage-scented lima bean succotash, beet & blue corn strips, [and] toasted pumpkin seeds" followed by pomegranate-clove salad and a choice of two vegan entrées: roasted acorn squash with gourmet fixin's or a wild-mushroom bread pudding accompanied by root veggies, kale, potatoes, and more. $40. 1-7 p.m. 2901 E. Madison St., 206-325-9100. MADISON PARK Carmelita offers two prix-fixe dinnersone vegan, one for the lacto-ovo setbecause Thanksgiving does not require eating something that once had a face. Both menus feature "baby beets," however, which makes us wonder how their mother is doing. Other menu highlights include a three-bean tartlet with wild mushrooms and a black truffle-celeriac purée with Beluga lentil vinaigrette. We're not sure why the addition of celeriac makes things fancy, but it seems to. $42. 3-9 p.m. 7314 Greenwood Ave. N., 206-706-7703. PHIINNEY RIDGE Masala of India is cookin' up tandoori turkey and turkey masala to honorand likely improve upon traditional Thanksgiving cuisine. Chef Sanjay Sharma's fusion buffet should produce some tasty results (he's slow-cooking turkeys in a tandoor for three to four hours!), and wouldn't you rather have vegetable pakoras, korma, and saag paneer on the side instead of Aunt Mildred's marshmallow yams? $11.95 (includes one glass of wine). 11:30 a.m.-8 p.m. 539 N.E. Northgate Way, 206-417-1118. NORTHGATE

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