Lunch Box

Kells Irish Restaurant The atmosphere inside Kells will transport you to Dublin with its dark, cozy pub interior, and if you close your eyes and listen to the Irish accents around you, you might even believe you're there. Order lunch, however, and the fantasy will end abruptly. The soda bread ($2.50) and chicken vegetable soup ($3.50/4.50) are pretty good—the bread is soft and warm with a touch of sweetness, and the soup has a hint of spice that separates it from an ordinary bowl. The chicken salad ($11.75) is good, too, with fresh dark greens, sautéed mushrooms, and a fantastic tarragon dressing, though the grilled chicken is bland. Order one of the "Irish" items at your own risk: At a recent office tasting, Cornish pasties ($8.50) were small and uninteresting, drowned in a salty sauce. The Ballycastle sausage roll ($7.95) was muted by its own bland gravy. But if you're looking to fill a St. Patrick's Day yearning this week, Kells might do the trick. GINGER DONALD 1916 Post Alley, 206-728-1916. DOWNTOWN

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