Don't despair if a trip to Italy isn't in your foreseeable future. Though you won't find anything here that measures up to the Roman Coliseum, there's at least one spot in town that serves gelato as good as the stuff in Rome. Perhaps that's because Procopio's owner, Brian Garrity, snagged the recipes for some 350 flavors of the Italian frozen dessert—don't call it ice cream!—from a Milanese gelato master. Or maybe it's his use of fresh, all-natural ingredients. Or the fact that he makes everything on site. Whatever the reason for the exquisite flavors, when the spacious dessert-and-espresso joint, equipped with a patio, dubs itself Seattle's best gelateria, it's hard to disagree. 1501 Western Ave. (Pike Street Hillclimb), 206-622-4280. PIKE PLACE MARKET

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