Kosher Delight

If you're in a New York deli state of mind, Kosher Delight can do you right. There's something about its minimalist decor that expresses a great purity of heart: the Jewish deli reduced to its basic elements. You've got the white menu board filled with black plastic letters; the slow-turning ceiling fan; the Goliath jar of big, plump kosher dill pickles; the deli case filled with meats; and the jolly Polish proprietor who greets his customers with a joyous: "Hallo, cousin!" Then there's the food: The full menu of sandwiches (pastrami, salami, chopped liver, etc.) certainly merits your attention, but you must start with lox on a bagel ($5.95). A schmear of cream cheese, a thin slice of red onion, and a thick red slice of ripe tomato add interest, but this fish doesn't need sprucing up: It's tartare-tender, with a hickory-tinged smokiness that surprises you bite after bite. Have it on a sesame bagel, and wash the whole thing down with a bottle of Dr. Brown's Cel-Ray soda ($1.70). Yes, it's celery-flavored, but trust me: It goes with good lox like chianti with chicken cacciatore. 1509 First Ave., 206-682-8140. PIKE PLACE MARKET

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