Equilibrium Is Not Your Friend

Two weeks ago in these pages, we explicated the Law of Kosher Conservation, which dictates that when one Seattle kosher eatery opens, another must close. This week, sadly enough, we must add a corollary: the Law of Deli Conservation. For while Bellevue's Goldbergs' Famous Delicatessen, reviewed in last week's issue, stands as a new beacon of hope for local deli enthusiasts, another authentic deli, Pike Place Market's Kosher Delight, has closed its doors. According to Pike Place communications director Stephanie Cirkovich, Moroccan-born owner Michel Chriqui, who opened Kosher Delight 15 years ago, recently sold his restaurant to Khal Beleh, who plans to reopen the space as Falafel King by the end of May. In the name of net growth, Hot Dish gently urges anyone who's ever thought, even for a moment, about opening a lox-and-bagel stand, or a quick-stop kreplach shop, to go ahead and take the plunge. Hazard pay More than two years in the making, revised food-safety regulations went into effect in Washington state on Monday, May 2. The changes in the catchily titled Chapter 246-215 of the Washington Administrative Code (WAC) address everything from food-service hygiene to the proper labeling of unpasteurized juice, and they affect 35 health-board jurisdictions in the state. One noteworthy change involves the system that determines permit fees for restaurants; rather than basing fees primarily on the size of a facility, the revised WAC factors in risk, requiring higher fees from (and more inspections of) "restaurants where raw meat is cooked, and there is cooling, reheating, and hot holding," as opposed to quick-stop establishments—such as hot-dog stands, coffeehouses, and gas-station food marts—where "no on-site cooking occurs." According to Rick Miklich, the food and facilities section manager for Public Health Seattle–King County, Washington was the 43rd state to incorporate the Food and Drug Administration's 2001 food-code updates, which the new regulations tweak. Local food-service operators sounded off on the statewide changes at an open forum in Bothell on Thursday, April 21, where PHS–KC collected ideas for adapting the state regulations for use in King County. Sound's fresh The 2005 edition of the Puget Sound Fresh Farm Guide is out—bigger, better, and more colorful than ever. You'll find contact information for hundreds of farmers, ranchers, retailers, markets, and CSAs spread over 12 counties in the 32-page booklet, which is available free at all public libraries, PCC Markets, at the info booth at Pike Place. If you still can't find one, go to www.pugetsoundfresh.org to download your copy, or call 206-296-7824 for assistance. Swirl, Sip, and Nosh New to the game of wine tastings are the Macrina bakeries; both the downtown location and the Queen Anne outpost now pour regional and imported wines on Fridays from 4 to 7 p.m. Celebrating the recent acquisition of liquor licenses at both stores, these tastings are $10 a pop for three 3-ounce pours; passed appetizers—cheese, seasonal fruits, house-baked crackers and the like—are included. 2408 First Ave., 206-448-4032, 615 W. McGraw St., 206-283-5900. Food and/or beverage news? E-mail Hot Dish at food@seattleweekly.com.

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