Chances are that most of you are savvy enough to have called ahead to make a reservation when the mood struck to visit Kaspar's on Lower Queen Anne, but to all you spontaneous diners: It's time to introduce a little structure into your lives. As of June 14, the Donier family will focus on the special events that have lately become the most booming aspect of their business. This doesn't mean you can't have dinner at Kaspar's, it just means you'll have to put a little more planning into it. While they'll focus on the private (and sometimes ultraprivate) events, cooking classes, and unique culinary adventures that have become their hallmark, the catering and special-events venue will still function as a restaurant from time to time. On holidays, the first Wednesday of every month (when wine-tasting dinners are served), the third Friday of every month (for Restaurant Favorites night), and on nights when KeyArena hosts a big-name concert, dinner will be served from 5 to 10 p.m., just like old times. Co-owner Nancy Donier suggests visiting and signing up for their newsletter. You're not losing a restaurant. You're gaining the chance to make more special dates. Pop-Tart, make us proud! One of our own has made the cut for Pastry's second annual Golden Scoop Awards (sponsored by the French Culinary Institute in New York). Earth & Ocean's Sue McCown has been chosen as one of the semifinalists in the category "Best Dessert Revival," which in layman's terms means the best retro-style dessert. Her Cherry Crackle Pop, which bears a striking resemblance to nostalgia- inducing Kellogg's Pop-Tarts, is competing against a chocolate-mint icebox cake and a key lime pie. Winners will be announced June 6 and honored at a special awards ceremony at the institute, and their creations will be featured on and in Food Arts magazine. Un-C.O.O.L After four years of pushing and shoving, Congress finally passed legislation last year to require groceries and fish markets to label every slab o' salmon or packet of shrimp with the contents' country of origin. This legislation, called C.O.O.L., went into effect April 1, a very appropriate date, considering that consumers are not likely to see any change in the current state of affairs for the foreseeable future. To start with, the U.S. Department of Agriculture is in charge of the program—the USDA's Food Inspection Division, to be exact, already overburdened and under stress because of its inability to keep track of cows on U.S. soil, let alone scallops from Indonesia. Second, though the law is in effect, the USDA doesn't propose to start enforcing it until Oct. 1. And, when pressed, it also admits that since Congress didn't give it any money for enforcement, it will have to depend on state and local inspectors to do the job. As if they had any time or money to spare. What's left? You, dear seafood consumer. Every time you shop and see a package of fish without the required information about where it was caught/farmed/packed, ask to see the fishmonger and point the fact out. If you get no satisfaction there, ask to talk to the store manager or the store owner. Still no recognition? Call the Better Business Bureau or the King County Department of Health. Make a nuisance of yourself. It's your fish, and you can cry if you want to. Food and/or beverage news? E-mail Hot Dish at

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