The later it gets, the more exotic and alluring Toi becomes. Happy hour runs from 3 to 7 p.m. most weeknights; it lasts until close on Mondays and 8 p.m. on Thursdays. Though it's very hip in general, Toi's ambience is much more vibrant at night than during the daylight hours. On a very roll-oriented menu, the home-style spring rolls ($3) and vegetable rolls ($3.50) stand out. But the kiew crob ($3) reigns supreme: It's a delightful melding of textures—crispy wonton wrapped around rich chive cream cheese and crab— accompanied by a delicious pineapple dipping sauce. Well drinks, draft beer, and Singha Thai are all $3, wine costs $4 a glass, and specialty cocktails will only set you back $5. Let the creative bartenders make you a personalized concoction tailored to your taste: sweet or sour, weak or strong. Toi features DJ beats Thursday through Saturday nights and hosts a jazz-and-wine event on the first Wednesday of each month. 1904 Fourth Ave., 206-267-1017. DOWNTOWN

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