George's Sausage and Delicatessen

If you've ever been hungry for a sandwich while wandering First Hill on what just happened to be smoking day at George's Sausage and Delicatessen, chances are you truly believe that you've seen God—or at least smelled him. The earthy, rich aroma that rises from Janet Lidzbarski's smoker brings meat lovers to their knees. For 25 years now, Lidzbarski and her crew—Polish women who wear starched whites, fantastic lipstick, and excellent hairdos—have been smoking several types of meats in-house, among them kielbasa, Canadian bacon, three kinds of ham, and kabanosy, a handheld snacking sausage. Aside from the house-made salads, almost everything else that's on offer inside the immaculate deli case is imported from Germany or Poland. Sandwiches are astonishingly inexpensive: $4.90 gets you piles of any meat with either Swiss, havarti, cheddar, or provolone on your choice of bread or roll; $3.25 buys you half. Simply prepared with a thick slap of mayo, a slice of tomato, and some lettuce, these sandwiches are popular with neighborhood hard-hat crews and staff from Pill Hill's various medical facilities. But don't worry: The ladies behind the counter keep the line moving quickly, and while you wait, you can try to decode the mysteries inside the colorful boxes of imported Polish candies, cookies, snacks, and noodle mixes that line the store's shelves. 907 Madison St., 206-622-1491. FIRST HILL

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