Rockin' Burrito

I bet the folks at Rockin' Burrito were bummed that Sub Pop Records recently moved several blocks north on Fourth Avenue. With wraps named for Buddy Holly and Joey Ramone, they seemed to be jockeying for a position as the label's de facto cafeteria. On the other hand, with wildly irreverent "burritos" referencing a range of musicians from ABBA (Thai peanut sauce, rice, spinach, cilantro, green onions, and peanuts; $6.49) to Hall and Oates (roast beef, rice, shredded cabbage, seasoned ground beef, salsa fresca, jack cheese, and pink adobo sauce; $6.49), the order-at-the-counter cafe is poised to appeal to just about anyone. So why is this place always so empty? The staff is young and exceedingly pleasant, the space is clean as a whistle, and the burritos aren't bad. It's just that they're not really burritos—and therein, perhaps, lies the problem. Wrapped in a white tortilla, stuffed with even whiter rice, and served salad-style in a bowl or wrapped as, well, a wrap (why not just call the place Rockin' Wraps?), the 11 "burrito" options offer such ingredients as pepperoni, teriyaki sauce, smoked turkey, and bacon. Of the more traditionally burritolike burritos, we liked the Louis Armstrong ($6.49), although the andouille sausage, red beans, and caramelized onions would be even better with zestier, more authentic rice. Breakfast burritos are slightly more burritolike, too (except for the James Taylor, which includes vanilla-bean cream cheese and granola)—and, as a bonus, they're served all day long, from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. 2501 Fourth Ave., 206-728-5910. BELLTOWN

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