West Seattle's only pizza bar also makes a mean Philly cheese steak.

At Talarico's, "pizza" is an adjective modifying the noun "bar." Sure, the one-size-feeds-all pie measures 28 inches, a common diameter for bicycle tires. But the giant flat screens measure at least 40 inches. Barstools number over 50. No one under 21 may enter, the kitchen is open till 1 a.m., and you can't get your 'za to go. Ergo, a pizza bar, not a pizzeria. The ambience is permanent midnight and oversized everything. All signature pies are available by the slice for $4.95. Sounds steep, but at one-eighth of a giant pie, that's a lot of square inches. My Sinatra slice, with spicy sausage and pepperoncini, held more toppings than most large pizzas around town. I recommend opting for the spicy or salty toppings, since the marinara comes across as sweet. This place has a Philly connection (chef Jaime Falco moved from there), and thus the authentic cheese steak ($9.95), topped with Whiz and served with a side salad, is the real sleeper on the menu. Don't overlook it, despite the call of the saucer-sized pizzas. MAGGIE DUTTON

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