Is it possible that this spot across the street from Mount Baker Park—home to so many promising but now defunct neighborhood restaurants over the years—has finally found its ultimate expression? Like other Chow Foods ventures (The 5 Spot, Coastal Kitchen, Endolyne Joe's among them), it's hit on a sound formula. Espresso and Essential Baking Company treats bring in singletons and pairs every morning; pizza and salads lure too-busy-to-cook neighborhood families at night. The room has been opened up since its previous incarnation (as the Rose Club); it's bright and inviting, with huge windows overlooking the street. We roosted at a roomy table and tried the plain tomato/mozzarella/basil margherita pizza ($8.75) and the novel con la patata ($9.75), with crispy potatoes, caramelized onions, Fontina cheese, Parmesan, thyme, and red pepper. Both equaled anything we'd eaten at Neapolitan-pizza havens Via Tribunali or Tutta Bella. With an excellent selection of wines and draft beers to boot, no doubt Mioposto will continue to help many a parent unwind after playtime in the park. LYNN JACOBSON MOUNT BAKER
Mioposto 3601 S. McClellan St., 206-760-3400, www.chowfoods.com.