Ebb n' Flow

You can find solid veggie fare at this Wallingford diner, which features weekend brunches and a "Flow Bar."

A restaurant's business constantly changes: Some days it's packed to the gills, and other days it's practically empty. David Harris, former owner of Ballard's Other Coast Cafe, understands the cycle well, which is why he Zenly named his latest eatery Ebb n' Flow. The updated-diner-style space, complete with checkered floors and vintage tables, formerly housed Jitterbug. Though weekend brunch is a big deal, we opted to sample some of the restaurant's vegetarian dinner chow in the bar area, the "Flow Bar," on a recent night. (By the way, a happy hour takes place there 4–7 p.m. on weekdays and 4–5 p.m. on weekends.) We were pleased with our attentive server, Andrew—so the receipt said—who quickly brought refills of my drink and speedily delivered the side salads that came with our entrées. My veggie melt ($8.95) was a warm, cheesy missile with mushrooms, onions, and a delightfully soft-on-the-inside, crunchy-on-the-outside hoagie bun. Another veggie dish of note was my companion's three cheese ravioli ($17.95 for the large portion); it was heart-stoppingly creamy and all the better for it. He asked for bread and, sure enough, he got it right away. Hopefully that's how things always go at Ebb n' Flow. MOLLY LORI

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