Unable to book that Hawaiian vacation? No matter. A step through Hula Hula's door will transport you to a thatched-roof tiki bar where wooden idols guard nearly every corner and the surf is always up—on the screen above the wraparound bar. More than two dozen tropical drinks waft across the menu like clouds on a balmy South Seas afternoon. Standards like a mai tai ($8) or piña colada ($7) may be enough to tempt you to set your board down, but house originals like the Kiki Tiki ($11), Noa Noa ($8), or Colonel's Big Opu ($6.50) will certainly make you kick off your flip-flops and chill in one of the beach loungers in the bar's lower area, which is dimly lit and decorated with electric puffer fish and old glass floats. Every hour is happy hour, with $4 well drinks and 12 "pupus" priced at $8 a plate. Pan-seared ahi tuna encrusted with macadamia nuts delights. House-made guacamole comes with plantain chips instead of tortilla chips. Beware the tilapia with lemon sauce, served whole; while delicious, it makes for a delicate operation under the low lighting. In true island style, nothing is rushed. You'll feel like you're riding da kine waves in no time. NEIL CORCORAN.
Hula Hula 106 First Ave. N., 284-5003, hulahula.org. LOWER QUEEN ANNE