The Weekly Dish: Mike Easton’s Roman-Style Pizza

Mike Easton’s Roman-Style Pizza

I’m a lucky, lucky girl. My office is in the same building as Salumi, and, now, just around the corner from Mike Easton’s (Il Corvo) new Roman-style Pizzeria Gabbiano in Pioneer Square. What is Roman-style pizza, you ask? According to Easton, the square dough, made from a sourdough starter and fermented a long time, contains some whole grains. Indeed, it’s not like any other pizza I’ve had—a definite departure from the city’s overabundance of Neapolitan thin-crusts. Instead it’s more bread-like, yet light, with big, airy holes throughout in a popover-esque style and a subtly whole-wheat flavor and texture, and deliciously oily. Easton aped a favorite pizzeria in Rome, just near the Vatican, to create his new pies, which are cut with kitchen shears to the size of your liking and cost .32/kg. Toppings change daily; Easton says you’ll just have to trust them and come in to see what’s on the menu. On opening day, one topped with squash blossoms (from vendors at the Occidental Square farmers market) was notable for the blossoms not being fried, but just heated atop the pizza in the 600-degree oven. A recent eggplant pizza (among others) featured thick slabs of the vegetable, which were not overwhelmed by the delicately flavored tomato sauce. The downside? Like Il Corvo, a line begins forming before noon.

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